Sunday, January 27, 2008

Willandra National Park. Pt2.

The Willandra homestead.












Situated approximately 750km west of Sydney, Willandra NP is another example of a working sheep station that began in the 1880's and survived through to the late 1960's. Like Kinchega, Mungo, Mt Wood and Wilga, its contribution to our national identity and our prosperity made this trip one to be remembered, especially on Australia day.

At its peak it covered 1760sq klms of flood plain, and 90,000 sheep were sheared in a season. The 1920's and 1930's represented its "hay day" with peak production in those years.. In 1912 Vickary Partnership purchased the lease and in 1918 built the beautiful homestead, which still exists today, (see above).

A severe drought just after WW2 began the decline, and by the late 1960's, (even with 22 employees), the property was purchased by Dalgety who did not renew the lease. It was finished. In 1972 NSW National Parks took over the property and in 1997 the homestead was beautifully restored. It was fortunate- in the late 1960's it as to be demolished but the pastoral company did not have enough money.

Floods
















The drive to Willandra does not look difficult on the map. Tar all the way to Lake Cargelligo, then patches of tar and dirt to Hillston. A final push of about 65klm to the National park is all that's required.

The typical road.













Here is the point- On our trip, (in 06), to the outback, Maalie asked me why I always carried 2 spare tyres... for this reason- The very time I did not carry one we experienced a blow out. Roads here are rough and tough. Even though the vehicle weighs 3.5 tonnes, it was only a few minutes before we were on our way again. The point is this- we did not see anyone and the road was littered with blown tyres. Also, being the long weekend, NO tyre repairers were open. It's a lesson learned- Carry 2 spares even if you think its an "easy" trip or you could be camping beside the road and not where you want.

The Landscape? Flat flood plain from horizon to horizon. Very few trees. Just evidence that, if it rained, you would be stuck. The Willandra creek runs into the Lachlan river, and evidence of recent rain could be seen. It's quite agoraphobic!


From the flat land, devoid of trees and form, suddenly we are greeted by buildings and trees! We had arrived. The homestead is simply beautiful. Green lawns, established gardens and trees all backing onto a lagoon, emerge from what seems no-where.
















We drove on to the camp sites. Soon the troopie was set up with kitchen and sleeping facilities. The camping areas backs on to the outer area of the swamps and will the rain you could smell the decay in the air.

Once set up , we set off along one of the walks which follows the banks of the creek. We were soon greeted by Whistling Kite, Wedge tail Eagle, Brown Thornbill and Grey Fantail. A Shingle back lizard sunbaked close to evidence of feral animals. The skull of a feral pig caught our attention, as too did the remains of goats and fox. Kangaroos hopped away lazily whilst emus did their usual "stupid" running away.


In the right season up to 170 species of bird can be seen on this lagoon and creek. Its clearly an oasis in a bland, hot and dry land.


The camp.














On returning to our campsite a bbq dinner and a coopers pale ale was had as we sat watching the sun set. It was simply beautiful. We discussed just how tough the men and women were to "tame" this land. But rather reduce it from salt bush and tree to weed and desolation. They did not know and its that simple. It was still hot as the sun disappeared.

The walk.














Soon we had a camp fire going as owls and bats flew overhead, and a beautiful moon appeared through the trees.

The moon.















It was a reflective mood as the ale flowed and I recalled my grandfather and his brother who worked and managed Stations such as this. frankly I would rather spend Australia day here than spend it amongst the crowds in Sydney.

Decayed bridged.

















Birds seen:- Whipbird, Bell Minor, Australian Magpie, Pee Wee, Soldier bird, Little raven, Australian raven, White Winged Chuff, House Sparrow, Willy Wagtail, Welcome Swallow, White Necked Heron, Great Egret, Wedge Tailed Eagle, Australian Pelican, Black Faced Wood Swallow, Plover, Nankeen Kestrel, Emu, Red Kneed Doterill, Black Chinned Honey Eater, Mallie Ring Necked Parrot, Brown Thornbill, Crested Pigeon, Whistling Kite, Black Kite, Azure Kingfisher, Pied Butcherbird, Grey Butcherbird. Apostle bird. White Browed Babbler.

41 comments:

  1. That looks like an easy choice, between staying in any town for a summer holiday and this place. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  2. What an adventurer you are, have you thought about organising these action holidays on a professional level?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Merisi:- thanks! It was very hot though, and I sprained my thumb changing the tyre which made simple things eg like lifiting the billy -difficult.

    Ellee- yes I enjoy thdriving and the setting up of the camp etc..whilst everyone else can relax and do their own thing

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Mate, a brilliant account, were you there with your whole family, or just David?

    Excellent bird list!

    ReplyDelete
  5. There were the three of us mate. My daughters stayed at home. I have to confess this IS the place for birds in spring. There were a lot of ducks too but they were very flighty and I could not give them a tick..

    ReplyDelete
  6. It's rainy, wet and windy in Cork (IRE). I wish I was there... by the beer is better here I guess.

    W

    ReplyDelete
  7. I have ajusted my taste in beer Worzel..

    I drink handcrafted Coopers Ales now.

    :o)

    ReplyDelete
  8. It is often likely to be rainy, wet and windy in Cork ;-)
    Phew... yep... I imagine it was hot. I think I prefer to take in those landscapes in July! 25 or so does me nicely.

    ReplyDelete
  9. the temperature was not too bad but the humidity was quite high!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Great way to spend the long weekend! I've always thought it the norm to either get a flat or lose a windshield on a trip like that. Don't think I could handle going inland this time of year though, I need the sea breeze! LOTS of birds even if out of Season :) Brewing your owm Coopers now?

    ReplyDelete
  11. Anon:- I love the sea breeze ( its a piscean thing)...but I cannot cope with a crowd at all- so I need the head space!
    :o)

    Yes I think I have been lucky with regards to flat tyres and screens!

    I think I should start to brew my own coopers! its delicious!

    BTW the photos on your blog are getting better! the blue is so.... BLUE!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Think Coopers is the most popular to home brew :) Just had to go back and see where all the blue 'blue' is you're referring to ... sure it isn't Coopers creating that effect?

    ReplyDelete
  13. no! I mean the water..just looks incredible in the bird photos and in the sea photos you do!

    Gawd..the "coopers effect!!" thats reserved for late saturday evening around a bbq or camp fire!! :o)

    ReplyDelete
  14. BTW I forgot Galah on my bird list! silly boy that I am

    ReplyDelete
  15. Simon: what did you say about donsands on halfmom's blog that got that severe reprimand? I think the comment was deleted because there was not sign of it when I looked today.
    Lorenzo.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Oh I just told them it was "crap"... then I got a "holy" comment on this blog which I deleted, and so I then deleted my comments on theirs. frankly they make me very angry with their stupidity

    ReplyDelete
  17. btw.... you might be interested to know that where I live has just met an official 'drought' measure over here as it hasn't rained for 21 days. I can hear your laugh from here... (much like the laugh my haemochromatosis-sister gave when I told her what my 'highest' ferritin score had been in the last four years or so;-)

    ReplyDelete
  18. :o) tell her mine was 4300..... at 38 years of age

    ReplyDelete
  19. wow... hers was over 1000 at about the same age and that sounded pretty bad to me! I have to keep working at it to get mine over 20... 36 was my high score;-)

    ReplyDelete
  20. What's a ferritin score? Something to do with blood iron no doubt but what actually? And what should it measure?
    Lorenzo.

    ReplyDelete
  21. The ferritin is your amount of 'stored iron'. I think different countries measure it with different units, but here 20-200 is considered 'normal' for a woman. (So 1000 is way above normal.) Below 12 I think is where they say you are anaemic. I am prone to iron defiency anaemia, and they watch the ferritin level, as that comprises the 'raw materials' for making haemoglobin in the blood. If the raw materials start dropping, anaemia can then follow.
    The problem for someone like my sister, is that she has a mutation which means her body cannot tell she already has too much stored iron, and so she takes more on board. It then gets deposited in organs like the liver and the heart, where it can cause damage.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Spot on Kiwi! Just prior to me being diagnosed I suddenly was hit with chronic fatigue. My new bike was slower and it felt as if I had a lead weight in my chest.

    My Doctor thought I was depressed...anyway did the tests- they thought I had cancer- anyway my ferritin was 4300 the highest they had seen. Specialist said " We will get you to 50. After that is a guess as to how long you will have"

    I have damaged kidneys and liver, It also effects the skin and other glands.

    However the mosy invasive part is the arthritis and osteoparosis ( which I have).

    There are different cobinations of the genes that determine just how severe the problem is ( and I got the worst).

    The doctor also asked me " what was I thinking" ( as most people suffer at about 500+. I just said " oh... when I felt tired I just roade my bike more...."

    treatment was 600ml of blood taken weekly for 2 years. Then fortnighly for 2 years, then once a month for a year, and now very 2 months...

    My ferritin is now 190. ( still too high) according to my french doctor.

    Because of the risks I am not supposed to drink, eat meat or shell fish. Raw oysters can kill (they have high metal content and a bacteria that thrives on iron...)

    Anyway- I cannot be bothered with the doctors advice.. too busy ;o)

    I had a singing career taking off when i was diagnosed... Did the Messiah bass part. Did a good job but it nearly killed me I was just too exhausted with the treatment.

    Doctors told me not to go and meet maalie in Shetland.. but I did!

    Sod the doctors!

    ReplyDelete
  23. >Doctors told me not to go and meet Maalie in Shetland.. but I did!

    That was in 2002 and we have met up in every subsequent year!

    ReplyDelete
  24. thats right! and its been great!

    ReplyDelete
  25. We've been having gales and torrential rain here, not good cruising weather, I'm afraid.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Simon you little bugger. You have been stirring it up again on halmom's blog.
    Lie down and I will convert you!
    Lorenzo.

    ReplyDelete
  27. I had to go and have a look... and yes, you have been stirring things along I see simon. But lorenzo.... I have to ask.... does your husband know about this lying down proposition?

    ReplyDelete
  28. hahahahahahaha! you both make me smile!

    Frankly i hope they are not getting too serious about it.

    They are a serious bunch!

    ReplyDelete
  29. simon,
    i must say that you made a very nice travel posting. i especially like the photo of the decayed bridge.

    ReplyDelete
  30. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Nancy- thank you!

    You mentioned Lane cove national park. Its ok for a day visit but I am not sure you an stay overnight there.

    However, if you go to my blog and look up the side bar which lists national parks, you can look up NSW and find it and it will give you all the details.

    Ellee- the weather here has been utterly crazy 100%

    ReplyDelete
  32. How disturbing about that iron situation! Then again, I appreciate your medical defiance ... you're after my own heart, lad.

    This region was also heavily grazed by sheep until the later part of the last century. It's hard to picture the area as once having extensive grasslands. Our grasses have been recovering better than most with a small increase in rains after this prolonged drought.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Hi mate, I'm off to Spain tomorrow, look forward to catching up when I'm back.

    ReplyDelete
  34. lin- seems that we have had the same experiences re the land!

    Maalie:- see you mate enjoy and I hope you get to spot those birds!

    BTW Ordinary Life has a new post...

    ReplyDelete
  35. Allo Simon mon cher! Maalie desire quand nous ecrit en franglais sur son blog pendant que il est avec Raelha et sa chats dans le pays de torro et paella.
    Il desire a voit un desosser de fracture quand il est la.

    Avec amour et merde,
    Lorenzo la llama.

    ReplyDelete
  36. I was going to say what a let-down, when there's no new post here on Monday morning, but then I spotted the hint about a new post on the other side of your fence.
    I'll saddle the horses then ... ;-)

    Word verification:
    fkkhgo.
    Ok, I understand "go"! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  37. yes- it was too wet for a post last weekend.

    Lorenzo - pelase translate! ;o)

    ReplyDelete
  38. Avec amour et merde! = with love and shit?????

    ReplyDelete
  39. That what happens when Llamas learn French! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  40. yes- perhaps it is a llamas term of affection!

    ReplyDelete
  41. simon.... venez ecrire en franglais sure le blog de maalie. Lorenzo et moi, nous sommes la!

    ReplyDelete