Abercrombie National Park

Situated aproximatley 55km south of the town of Oberon in the Great Dividing Range, the Abercrombie River National Park, is both beautiful and a great place for trout.
On the weekend we decided to try our luck (and skill) and see what we could find. My last trip here was 12 years ago and it was a near disaster. I took the family and was towing an off road trailer with a landcruiser.
The track that leads down to the River is vewry steep. Interestingly enough the track simply ends at the river. No turning circle, it just ends. A river on one side and a verticle embankmenton the other. On that particular trip I had to unload the trailer and to dangle it over the edge in an attempt to turn around. It took about a 20 point turn to succeed. I then had to ferry the trailer and family up the steep rock strewn track ( about 2km in length), in 40c heat to the top. The track was loose and the trailer forced the back of the Cruiser to slew from side to side. The track was very loose back then.



The river. More like a stream in this part

The trip this time was easier as the new Cruiser has more power, no trailer and the track surface was in better condition. However the track was just as steep and again there is little area to turn in once you reach the bottom.
The river itself is beautiful, tall trees, clear pools and water dancing over rocks. It was a little shallow, but still we walked and had a go in the deeper pools and eddies. A storm came over and we chose to leave before the track became wet- memories of 12 years ago came back pretty quickly!

On this trip we saw- australian magpie, chrimson rosella, grey fantail, superb fairy wren, sulphur crested cockatoo, turquoise parrot, little button quail, noisey minor, bell minor, lyrebird, weebill, pacific balck duck, common bronzewing, willy wagtail, pee wee, yellow tail cockatoo, firetail finch, glossy black cockatoo, black kite, white wing chuffs, black faced cuckoo shrike, masked lapwing, friarbird.

We also saw- tiger snake, stinky swamp wallaby, eastern grey kangaroo , and a rainbow trout

The Tiger snake. Has the most toxic poison of all snakes, but its smaller fangs prevent it from being the most deadly.

We decided to drive to the fish river and try our luck there as well. In a previous post we camped along this river and the trout were abunadant. After about an hour a storm again hit and lightening was striking the paddocks a short distance from where we were fishing. Fly rods and lightening dont mix, and we raced back to the car, narrrowly avoiding a tigersnake as it moved reluctantly off the track.

Both David and I had a great day, a great trip into the national park within the Great Dividing Range. After about 12 hours of fishing and walking we were home. The Wildlife we saw, the bird life and the country side made this a great way to relax, even though the fishing was intereupted.

We vowed we would be back in March, and catch that rainbow trout that so eluded us.

(More photos to come as soon as I get my bluetooth to work again)

Wentworth Falls

Wentworth Falls.

Another attractive area in the Blue Mountains is Wentworth Falls. As an extension of the Valleys of the Waters walk I did a month ago, and with the weather quite ordinary, I was determined to get out of the house and explore the varieties of tracks that this area has to offer.


Red Browed Firetail Finch

Commencing at the West Street, I took the Short Cut Track, which is a fire trail, to the Conservation Hut. The weather was foul yet I still spotted Red Browed Firetail Finch and White Throated Tree Creeper as well as Yellow Rumped Thornbill and Wattlebird.

From the Conservation Hut to the falls themselves is a short, brisk walk with spectacular views across the Jamison Valley. Wentworth Falls is in two sections with superb views from the top, the centre and the bottom.


Steep Stairs

The track then crosses the falls and a well defined, steep, rock staircase takes you to the middle section of the falls. These steps again remind me of a Tolkien adventure. Further along you can turn left and walk to the bottom of the falls- the advise from National Parks is only if you are experienced. Whilst I feel that its not too difficult, there are plenty of tourists who could find themselves stressed by being inappropriately equipped- I saw one guy in UGG boots...


Mt Solitary above the clouds.

Its a fantastic walk, as the track follows the cliff line, under waterfalls, over bridges and ladders. Following the track which hugs the cliff face until it reaches Vera falls as mentioned in a previous post. There are quiet dark forests, exposed rocks and cliffs all within easy reach.


More water falls.

There are many tracks and diversions, however follow the advise of the National Parks signs, Avoid the tracks that are marked "Exerienced Walkers Only", and you can get fresh air, great views, exercise regardless of the conditions! Walk distance about 8km.

Birds seen:- New Holland Honey eater, Eastern Spinebill,Red Browed Firetail Finch, White Throated Tree Creeper, Wattlebird, Yellow Tufted Honey Eater, Currawong, Grey Butcherbird, King Parrot, Bell Minor,

Valley of the waters

Yellow Tufted Honey Eater.

This weekends walk is perhaps the most spectacular of all the walks in the Blue Mountains. It would take me along the nature trail and into the Valley of the Waters. It commenced in West Street, Wentworth Falls, passed Edinburgh Castle rock and along the cliffs. What is different about this walk is- most walks in the Blue Mountains are either on top of the cliffs or, down into the valleys. This walk places you in between with some of the trail cut into the side of the cliff. This give the walker incredible views and aspects. From intimate water falls to views across the Jammison Valley.

New steel walkways across swamp areas

Spectacular waterfalls, rain forests and distant views are part of the package. What surprises me though, is the number of walkers ill prepared. YOU MUST ALWAYS CARRY WATER and a FIRST AID KIT. There were a number of tourists and walkers asking me how much further to go, looking stressed and uncertain because, whilst not difficult, you must be fit. Seven km does not sound far until you are finding yourself climbing ladders and stairs that seem to go on "for ever". The best way to enjoy a walk like this is to plan, take plenty of fluid (you cannot drink from the streams as one fellow was), take lots of snacks and rest when you feel the need. Getting too focused on the walk and placing each foot in front of the other can ruin what even Charles Darwin walked and commented on. Places such as Lodard Falls and Vera Falls are truly spectacular and an ideal place for lunch or a swim ( weather permitting).

Some of the cliff faces I would walk along.

Its important to note- that there are 2 trails in this area, one that even the inexperienced ( though well equipped) can enjoy, and the other that which the national parks suggests more experienced walkers only try. All tracks are clearly sign posted.
On this walk I spotted Lewins Honey Eater, Regent Honey Eater, New Holland Honey Eater, and Grey Shrike Thrush. I was very pleased to identify one I had not seen before-Yellow Tufted Honey Eater. A striking bird with very yellow markings and a distinct black eye mask. Yellow Rumped Thorn Bill were always a welcome sight too.

Vera Falls

After lunch I chose to return the way I came- all up hill. After a few hours walking I had returned to the car- the only evidence of the walk- a HUGE blood blister on my big toe. I did not notice this until the following day!

Walking in the Blue Mountains is fun and beautiful but cannot stress just how important it is to be prepared- carry plenty of water, know your limitations, and plan. Frankly there were just too many people asking my advise and looking stressed. If the day was hotter, some may have been in serious trouble.

OUCH!

Birds seen:- Australian Magpie, Pee Wee, grey Butcher Bird, Currawong, Bell Minor, Masked Lapwing, Lewins Honey Eater, New Holland Honey Eater, Regent Honey Eater, Yellow Tufted Honey Eater, Rosella, Yellow Rumped Thornbill, Grey Shrike Thrush, Satin Bower Bird.

Gundabooka, Peery Lake and Mutawintji National Parks

Road into Gundabooka

With the Easter break of four days it was time to set off for some serious birding and exploring of outback NSW.
This trip would take us to some familiar and not so familiar places. With storms, flash floods, and a vehicle that suddenly developed a major gearbox problem, it was both exciting and stressful.
We left on Friday and headed west to Cobar. The weather was not looking good, and there was a prediction of 2 inches of rain in a few hours, a place to camp was needed. We chose to head north to Gundabooka National Park. Located south of Bourke it was a bit of a detour but the road looked solid and the trip into the park not too difficult. After about 7 hours of travel we arrived. All the camp sites were taken so we had to make do with one we created. It was not too long that we had the troopcarrier set up and the fire going. A nice meal and some time near the camp fire was welcome. The moon was full, but before long some dark clouds began to form. It was time for bed. At about 3am a large storm to the south provided a symphony of lightening and thunder. A cool breeze blew through the screens of the troopies accommodation.

The choice we made was the right one.

The next morning a light shower made everything in the camp wet so we chose to pack in a hurry and do a 7km walk to a small range. Here we discovered red capped robin, and bull dog ants nests as well as beef wood trees. These trees when cut look like a slice of raw beef and were used by the aborigines for medicinal purposes.

Brolga

Walking in the bush is a unique experience, its harsh but its something more. After returning we drove to Louth- A horrible little place on the banks of the Darling river. The road was closed so we took an alternate route to Tilpa. The road was washed out in parts and 4x4 was needed in many spots. The road conditions varied greatly- from heavy corrugations to soft mud and dust at the same time, (Yep! that's right).   At Tilpa we enjoyed a pie and a beer as well as conversation with locals.

We then pushed onto Peery Lake. The road was rough.. The rear doors of the troopie require adjusting due to vibration, and beer cans and milk cartons wear holes through them which made a mess in the esky. Whilst traveling we enjoyed a good sighting of Brolga- A stunning bird and, dare I say more stunning than Flamingo, very tall and they  move beautifully. At Lake Peery we spotted a variety of ducks and water bird. It was difficult to identify as we required a telescope.
Peery Lake on the Paroo River.

After a while we pushed on to White Cliffs. This Opal mining town is like something out of a movie set, almost surreal, the owners live underground in dwelling carved out of their Opal mining lease. A quick fill up with fuel before we pushed onto Mutawintji National Park. Here there was a huge Aboriginal gathering and we enjoyed their high spirits and the hospitality of the Rangers. I was pleased when the rangers pulled up and got out, I thought "here goes.. I am in trouble".. only for a big grin to spread over his face and he said in a booming voice "top truck maaaatee!!!" ( this comment is here for you Maalie I know just how much you love the troopie!)

White Cliffs.

This national park has a spiritual significance for our Aboriginal people. The "clever man" ( or medicine man in other nations) healed the sick and did cave paintings, and it has been a gathering place before it was a sheep station. A walk into the gorges we could see why. Simply stunning. After several km, it was time to head back to camp.

Something strange came over me- I got a gut feeling that something was going to go wrong with the troopie... the roads are extreme and I decided to leave a day early. The drive out is through properties and frankly, the roads and tracks on the farms were in better condition than in the parks or main roads.
Mutawintji Creek.

I was right- when fueling up in Cobar, I noticed oil pouring out of the transfer case. I had blown a seal. This resulted in me having to nurse the vehicle home- 14 hours in rain, non stop, at a reduced speed to ensure that I did not cook the gearbox resulted in me having to peel myself out of the vehicle. I must confess I was stressed as I waited for the gearbox to fail.

 However, It was a top weekend. 2500km through some of the most amazing outback country, a beer with friends and wonderful campfires, and the sighting of Brolga and Australasian Bittern real highlights!


Birds seen:-Australian Magpie, White headed Pigeon,Yellowtail Cockatoo, Little raven, New Holland Honey Eater, Kookaburra, Nankeen Kestrel, Black Kite, Australasian Bittern, Black Shouldered Kite, Redcap Robin, Crested Pigeon, Common Bronze wing, Black faced Cuckoo-shrike, Apostle Bird, Pee Wee, Pied Butcher Bird, Willy Wag tail, Singing Honey eater, Turquoise Parrot, Brolga, White Necked Heron, White faced Heron, Great Egret, Grey Butcher bird, Black Fronted Dotterel, common Sandpiper, Orange Chat, White fronted Chat, Black Swan, Tree Martin, Little Button Quail, Silver Gull, Major Mitchell ( now called Pink cockatoo), Splendid wren, Yellow Throated Minor, Little Crow, Gilbert's Whistler, Wedge tailed Eagle, Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, Australian Pelican.

Lockley Pylon

David at the start of the walk.

Perhaps one of the most spectacular and contrasting walks in the Blue Mountains is the walk to Lockley Pylon. Details are here http://ozultimate.com/bushwalking/walk.php?int_resource_id=723 It contrasts from other walks as it has an almost "alpine" feel. That is, the walk takes you across open heath and low vegetation. This walk is yet another way of decending into the beautiful Blue Gum forest, and meets at the junctions of Govetts Gorge and the Grose Valley.Approximatley 9 km it is an easy grade with plenty to see. We spotted Jacky Winter, New Holland Honey Eater and Yellow Thornbill all within a few minutes.

The weather was typical of the mountains. We started in heavy fog and drizzle, and once reaching our destination, were bathed in golden sunshine. Above us Wedge Tail Eagles soared, at our feet bull ants and bush cockroaches scurried.

Bush Cockroach about 5cm long.

About half way we stopped for lunch and enjoyed the company of a Yellow Tailed cockatoo. These large birds are quite a site, with swooping flight and a distinctive call.

Yellow Tail Cockatoo

The views from the top are simply spectacular:- Mt Banks, Mt Hay, the Grose Gorge as well as Fortress Creek Falls create a vista not seen anywhere else. We returned to the car after a few hours it was a great way to spend an afternoon.

Birds Seen:- Australian Magpie, King Parrot, Wedge Tailed Eagle, Nankeen Kestrel, Yellow Thornbill, New Holland Honey Eater, Eastern Spinebill, Australian Raven, Currawong, Pee Wee, Common Bronzewing, Red Rumped Parrot, Masked Lapwing, Jacky Winter.

Colo River

Wheeny Creek camping ground

With temperatures soaring well into the high 40c+ range, and with David and his friend looking for something to do, I decided to take them to the Colo River to cool off, do some fishing as well as a spot of birding.
 Fully equipped with fishing roads, buckets, lures, nets as well as binoculars, bird book and sunscreen we set off. The airconditioning in the troopie a welcome relief. We soon arrived at Wheeney creek  and after a few minutes spotted Yellow faced Honeyeater, Welcome Swallow, Bell Minor, King Parrot and Galah. Walking around the camp sites we soon spotted Lewins Honey Eater, Superb Fairy Wren and Soldier Bird. Davids friend Lochlan said "What's that bird there?" It was a Rock Warbler! I was pleased to be able to show the boys such a bird.


Colo Swamps.

As the heat began to climb we moved on and we soon arrived at the swamps in Colo. Here we spotted Purple Swamp Hen, Masked Lapwing, Dusky Moorhen, and Pacific Black Duck. Again we moved on quickly and from the car Spotted Crested Pigeon, Willy Wagtail, Australian Magpie and a White Faced Heron.
Not too much further we had arrived at the Colo River bridge. Needless to say it was a little busy as many locals tried to cool off. We decided to push onto the camp grounds. It's a very pleasant location, with easy car camping available and although busy, it was not as crowded as the bridge. The boys gathered their gear and after a few minutes had arrived to where they wanted to fish.


David and his friend.

The Colo river is a shallow fast flowing river at this point with white sandy beaches and rugged steep sandstone cliffs. It is one of the most beautiful places I know and formss part of the Wollemi National Park.
I chose to sit under a tree and read my bird book,(damn cast on my  arm!) whilst the boys fished. I doubted they would catch anything.. After a few hours they returned with flat head fingerling's, prawns and numerous other small fish we could not identify. A small crowd gathered to have a look and the boys had made numerous friends as they concentrated their efforts on the reeds and shallows.


Kicking back in the shade.

One fish of note is the Puffer fish. Like its cousin the stone fish of the ocean this fish has poisonous barbs so wearing sand shoes is essential or a trip to hospital could be in order.
As the sun began to shift it was time to leave. An enjoyable day was had by all. David placed his fish in his aquarium where the majority have survived and are enjoying their new surrounds.


A bucket of tiddlers.

Birds Spotted:-Yellow Faced Honey Eater, Welcome Swallow, Bell Minor, King Parrot, Galah, Lewins Honeyeater, Superb Fairy Wren, Soldier Bird, Rock Warbler, Purple Swamp Hen, Masked Lapwing, Dusky Moor Hen, Pacific Black Duck, Willy Wagtail, Crested Pigeon, White Faced Heron

Mountain Climb

The fire trail.

As some of you know I broke my arm, with it being in a fibreglass cast for six weeks I began to get restless. Without the ability to ride my bike or pitch a tent, or even drive the troopie, I thought " Heck, I can still walk".. and chose to take a walk to the top of Mt Banks. In previous posts I write about riding in the area a lot. This is on the fire trails that lead around the base of the mountain not to the top. 25 years ago the track was open to four wheel drives and I drove to the top. The drive was tricky as the track as I remembered had large rock steps. Once reaching the top the climate shifts and there were picnic tables under tall gums. I wondered if they were still there.


The view as we ascend. Note the fire trails below.

They day was warm, as we parked the car and got our packs ready. Only walking a few metres we were greeted by a brown snake. It took little interest in us, and we gave it the respect it deserves and were not bothered by it as it slithered past. Walking the track I normally ride really gives you a different perspective. Yellow thornbills, bearded dragons and bull ants made most of the warm track and small heath like shrubs. David and I spent time catching the lizards which was fun.


David with a lizard we caught.

Before too long, we reached the intersection for the ascent. Its a steady, not difficult climb, and it is exactly as I remember it, although a little more overgrown. The exposed heath gives way to tall gums and a more rain forest feel as the track winds around to the northern side of the Mtn. After an hour we were at the top and I was excited to see the old picnic table right were I had remembered it 25 years before!

The Picnic table!
The one disappointing thing- weeds. Lots of Scottish thistle, fire weed and wild tobacco. Similar to the problem on Mt Hay but more so. I sometimes find the "lock out and leave alone" approach of the National parks frustrating. In the 1970's the parks were pristine and weed free ( relatively). Yet you could light fires and even drive into the areas.

Walking track to the bottom

The decent from the top is spectacular. If you click on the photos you can see the fire trails I ride and the mountains look like the ocean. Within half an hour we were back to the car having spent a wonderful few hours.

Victoria Falls

Fog and Sleet

The plan was- To go to Coolah Tops National Park. The reality was- It was too wet, too hit and miss, so instead I chose to walk down to the Victoria Falls.

Situated west of Blackheath, but in the same network of valleys as Blue Gum Forest, I was curious to see just how the landscape had recovered from the bush fires. Like Perry's Lookdown, it requires a drop into the systems of creeks and gullies that ultimately form the Grose Valley, and Grose River. I had hoped to improve on the bird list as well. But with heavy fog and rain, it was unlikely.


Early section of the track.

The drive to Mt Victoria is uneventful and pleasant. Once arriving the road to the falls is easily signposted and the average sedan would cover the 12k of dirt road with ease.
I was surprised to see quite a few other dedicated walkers and campers in the area. It was good to see other enjoying the mountains despite the weather. Parking the troopie, its a decent into the valley. Not as extreme as Perry's it is a pleasant mix of steps, rock overhangs and forests. The fire here must have been intense as much of the undergrowth has vanished, replaced by succulent new growth. In opening the canopy too, new growth is rapid, as native species compete with weeds that seemed abundant.


The rain and wind were reasonable and most birds seemed absent. Not that it mattered, my binoculars fogged up and my books got soggy in the process.So I pushed on. Within a short time I was at the falls.


Victoria Falls
They looked great! Rock pools were full and the sound of falling water and Bell Minors filled the forest floor. In the pools were HUGE Yabbies! For my OS friends these are similar to a lobster or many other crayfish, and are delicious eating for sure! Some are pale blue in colour, yet these were a brilliant red. Simply boil water with salt and drop them in head first. Sadly these ones are protected in the national park, so I had to content myself with a stale biscuit!.


Yabbies with white wine and a cheese and garlic sauce........
After taking several photos I headed pack towards the car where a hot cup of coffee was most welcome. It was a most enjoyable walk.

Billy Boiling.

Even though birds were quiet, I still spotted Pied Butcher Bird, Pee Wee, Bell Minor, White Headed Pigeon, Currawong, White Browed Tree Creeper, Yellow Rumped Thornbill, Galah, Rosella, Australian Magpie and Wood Duck.